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HElP!!! Poly tiles
20/04/2012
4:37 pm
roy@evolutionlettings.com
Ashford, Kent
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Hi people

Not had one of these ever in lettings, a few when i was in sales but wanted to double check if anyone else has come across this. Older bungalow, good old poly ceiling tiles! Whats the rules on these if there are any?? I personally hate them but hey ho!!

Thanks in advance!

Roy
http://www.evolutionlettings.com following and supporting landlordreferencing.co.uk

Consistently Setting New Standards!

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20/04/2012
4:56 pm
PaulBarrett
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roy@evolutionlettings.com said:

Hi people

Not had one of these ever in lettings, a few when i was in sales but wanted to double check if anyone else has come across this. Older bungalow, good old poly ceiling tiles! Whats the rules on these if there are any?? I personally hate them but hey ho!!

Thanks in advance!

Roy
http://www.evolutionlettings.com following and supporting landlordreferencing.co.uk

 

My Mum still has them in the bathroom where they have been for the past 44 years.

Unlikely to be a fire hazard!;  But I suppose it would be good practice to remove as if they were involved in a fire they would give off lots of nasty toxic thick black smoke which will kill you in about 2 mins………..something to think about perhaps.

I think when it comes down to letting better to maybe play safe and have them removed.

If there was a fire and investigators said a fatality was possibly caused by unprotected ceiling coverings, possible manslaughter charges.

I'm sure I am over egging the situation, but for the sake of removing them at least that won't ever be  a concern.

20/04/2012
4:57 pm
Samii
Weston-super-Mare
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@PeakLetts have just tweeted to me :

@LandlordRef
Polystyrene tiles are highly toxic if there is a house fire. Should be removed ideally.

Hope this helps Roy! Smile

Samii. Social Media & Content Manager at LandlordReferencing.co.uk.
20/04/2012
4:59 pm
roy@evolutionlettings.com
Ashford, Kent
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I agree on removal but the questions is, are they illegal?

Roy

Consistently Setting New Standards!

http://www.evolutionlettings.com supporting landlordreferencing.co.uk 

20/04/2012
6:00 pm
Samii
Weston-super-Mare
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Samii. Social Media & Content Manager at LandlordReferencing.co.uk.
20/04/2012
7:23 pm
Paul Routledge
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Hi Roy,

Had loads in property's I have bought and there is only one solution take them down and re-board the ceilings, the rules here don't count they are a total death trap in the event of a fire.

If you imagine lying in bed and someone pouring hot wax on you face in the tub full that is what it would be like when these ceilings start to dissolve in heat.

There is no choice if you have a poly tile ceiling take it down yesterday.Cry

20/04/2012
7:28 pm
Samii
Weston-super-Mare
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Alrow Services has replied on twitter :

"Polystyrene ceiling tiles give off cynanide gas in a fire – think they are a class 1 hazard under HHSRS & can hide asbestos artex."

Samii. Social Media & Content Manager at LandlordReferencing.co.uk.
20/04/2012
7:38 pm
mary latham
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Do not take them down just overboard and skim.  The only danger is if they are visible and in the event of a fire they will drip has already been said.  Taking them down is time consuming, messy and unneccessary. They will actually reduce heat loss in the room if they are left under the plaster board.

 

Samii is right they are a cat 1 hazzard and will not pass an HHSRS/fire inspection so it is not an option to leave them in rented property.  It is unlikely that there is Artex underneath because they don't stick well to that type of surface more likely to be hiding a cracked ceiling which may also come down if you start to remove the tiles.

 

How do I know this?  Guess! hahahaha

20/04/2012
7:50 pm
Paul Routledge
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Mary probably doesn't like taking them down!Laugh

But if you do not the ceiling will not be fire rated and in the event of a fire burning through the board which may be fixed to a 1/2" baton (you must use fire board)  you will create a air void which could escalate the fire as it starts to drip within the void area.

It may coast a bit more but it will be worth it 1/2 measures are like 1/2 inch voids they may burn you. 

20/04/2012
9:26 pm
PaulBarrett
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On reflection they are really nasty things and it is really best to take them down.

Factor in reboarding costs.

There could be a possible issue with insurance if there is an incident.

The insurers may not pay out or reduce the claim amount.

I would play safe and remove them.

You could use reboarding as an opportunity to maybe install spotlights etc.

20/04/2012
11:27 pm
mary latham
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No I don't like removing them and I always screw my boards to the joists rather than use battons. Yes the pink fire rated boards are the ones that I use and these have half hour fire protection and since there is no void  and the board is sealed when skimmed there will not be a problem.

Spot lights are not good for the EPC.

 

I don't do anything by halves Paul R – as you will soon find out!

 

Has this site got a naughty step?  If so Paul R needs to go there and think about his behaviour.

21/04/2012
6:05 am
Paul Routledge
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Sitting on it now Ms Mary Laugh

Not a problem with screwing to the joists and skimming it and I think it is just a preference, the problem I have found is that in older properties it is quite difficult to get a perfect finish and the bounce on the joists above can crack the plaster over time.

So for the sake of a bit of baton and time, naughty Paul batons it out first and Ms Mary prefers to screw it up.Laugh

XX either way is fine.

 

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21/04/2012
12:06 pm
mary latham
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Paul I have found older properties much easier to work with.  The joist are at 18" centres and the original lathe and plaster has no joins.  In more modern properties the joist can vary in distance and the boards are often not joined on a joist so that the edges are not supported and movement above makes them crack constantly. People often put this down to shrinkage where in fact it is poor workmanship and a disregard to the ongoing maintenance.

Overboarding by cutting the boards so that they join on a joist and screwing them to all the joist in between gives a solid finish which does not crack and benefits from the thermal insulation of the poly tiles which prevent condensation and mold.

In bathrooms, where there is no boiler, I use Upvc soffit boards to cover poly tiles, they are easy to fit and the finish looks modern and stays clean.  Where I have done this I have NEVER had a mould problem again because the soffit boards are hollow and the surface is warm and they clean with a damp cloth. In student lets I have covered all my tiled walls with soffit boards too – no mould, no grout to clean and they always look modern and clean – student proof. Soffit boards should only be used in bathrooms where there is no boiler because they are a petroleum product.

22/04/2012
8:46 am
Paul Routledge
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mary latham said:

Paul I have found older properties much easier to work with.  The joist are at 18" centres and the original lathe and plaster has no joins.  In more modern properties the joist can vary in distance and the boards are often not joined on a joist so that the edges are not supported and movement above makes them crack constantly. People often put this down to shrinkage where in fact it is poor workmanship and a disregard to the ongoing maintenance.

Overboarding by cutting the boards so that they join on a joist and screwing them to all the joist in between gives a solid finish which does not crack and benefits from the thermal insulation of the poly tiles which prevent condensation and mold.

In bathrooms, where there is no boiler, I use Upvc soffit boards to cover poly tiles, they are easy to fit and the finish looks modern and stays clean.  Where I have done this I have NEVER had a mould problem again because the soffit boards are hollow and the surface is warm and they clean with a damp cloth. In student lets I have covered all my tiled walls with soffit boards too – no mould, no grout to clean and they always look modern and clean – student proof. Soffit boards should only be used in bathrooms where there is no boiler because they are a petroleum product.

All new builds are 400 centres which is the width needed to board out with a 8x4 board and as far as I can remember they have been like that for years and years, I have built 7 new houses hands on and done over 50 conversions/renovations and have never come across a board which is not attached at the edge.  

I also remove all lathe and plaster walls and put up new stud work with double insulation for sound.

22/04/2012
11:41 am
mary latham
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Paul I own 5 houses on an estate that was built in the 70's and it was only when a radiatior leaked in a bedroom that I realised why the ceilings cracked constantly.  None of the boards are joined on a joist and there are several places where 4 corners meet with no support.  The plasterer who came to sort the ceiling out told me that he sees this all the time because "they worked on a fix price and the carpenters threw the timbers in and the plasterers won't stop to cut the boards"

The outer walls are dabbed and they too canstantly crack.

 

And dont get me started on 60's build where the brickies cleaned their trowels and hawks into the cavities.  I now have buildings where the brick ties are bridged by mortar and I have damp patches all the time. There is one particular block of flats where we have had the cavities cleaned 4 times and we cannot get the cavities filled for insulation because of these "bridges"

When you are building you are working to a good standard and thinking about the ongoing maintenance but in the 60's and 70's it was all about speed.

22/04/2012
4:41 pm
Paul Routledge
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I Don't buy 70s property Mary they all need rebuilding as you say no cavity ties just bricky's snots which breached the void. I buy Victorian or 90's + now.

Did you see the programme on the 70s 9.00 Mondays BBC2 wow it was so nostalgic and took me right back.

So worth watching Laugh

22/04/2012
6:20 pm
PaulBarrett
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Paul why with ANY cavity wall construction would the problem of snots and ties still not exist?

I wasn't aware of such an issue and yet this irritant must affect millions of properties, getting irritating 'damp patches'

Does insulation prevent this occurring if you are able to get it in the cavity?

22/04/2012
9:12 pm
mary latham
Guest

PaulBarrett said:

Paul why with ANY cavity wall construction would the problem of snots and ties still not exist?

I wasn't aware of such an issue and yet this irritant must affect millions of properties, getting irritating 'damp patches'

Does insulation prevent this occurring if you are able to get it in the cavity?

 

You can insulate Paul but the mortar bridges the cavity and the damp patches continue

22/04/2012
9:17 pm
mary latham
Guest

Paul Routledge said:

I Don't buy 70s property Mary they all need rebuilding as you say no cavity ties just bricky's snots which breached the void. I buy Victorian or 90's + now.

Did you see the programme on the 70s 9.00 Mondays BBC2 wow it was so nostalgic and took me right back.

So worth watching Laugh

 

But nice big rooms and windows. I like Victorian too.

 

My memory of the 70's is when the hemlines dropped and I lost my mini skirts and hot pants, I never wore those awful thick soled shoes and eventually my dainty high heels came back again. Stop looking back Paul you will bump into a tree!

22/04/2012
9:42 pm
roy@evolutionlettings.com
Ashford, Kent
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Paul, although i was only born in 1972 i still remembered quite a bit of that program and thought it was amazing!!! i have advised my client to just have the damned things removed so off to get him a quote now!

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